Degradation of Heritage

Degradation of Heritage


Gold is a chemical element with the symbol Au (Latin: aurum) as well as dense, soft, shiny and the most malleable and ductile pure metal. Pure gold has a bright yellow color and luster traditionally considered attractive, which it maintains without oxidizing in air or water. In the Copper Age, gold artisans and goldsmith embarked on the metallic history and artistic demand of gold, even Egyptian hieroglyphs of 2600 BC described the value of gold. Romans were pioneer on extracting gold by using hydraulic mining method and during the 19 century the new economic trend of gold rush started in Australia, America, Latin America and Africa.

Gold in Bengal

The famous terracotta female figure from tamluk with it’s elaborate gold jewelry, costume and head-dress is an example of the art of the Sunga period dating in the 2nd-1st century B.C. Discovery of fragments from the ruins of Mahasthan of Bogra leads us to consider that the costume and jewellery displayed on the figures were those used all over the country during the early years of christen era.

The patronage of the Mughal Subadars, their courtiers and the legendary gentry who formed the aristocracy of Bengal, the art of jewellery flourished and gold or silver smith, the enamellers and the stone setters began to create their masterpiece.

Europeans travelers, who visited various parts of the Mughal Empire, were amazed at the amount and profusion of gold jewellery used by people of that time. Francois Berner, a famous French traveler who visited Bengal towards the middle of the 17 century , remarked that “ the empire was an abyss of gold and silver which were melted and remelted , fabricating woman’s bracelets both for hands and feet , charms , earrings , nose and finger rings etc. the quality of these articles made is incredible.”

The view or philosophy behind the design of our gold ornament mostly Ritual and Natural Motif. Alamgir Khan, Executive Member of Bangladesh Jewelers’ Association and Secretary of Comilla Jewellery Association and Engr.A.M.M.S.H Khan Rizvi , Director of Bangladesh institution of Design and executive member of Bangladesh Jewellery Manufacturers and Exporters Association gave similar opinion regarding the design of our ornaments, especially Hindu and Buddhism conquered on jewellery making and signifying aesthetic and arty value among jewellery artist.

Jewellers of precious metal
Swarnakar or goldsmith is an artisan group, working as goldsmith or silversmith. The Bengali name of the occupation is derived as a compound of two words swarna (gold) and kar (worker). They produce innumerable silver or gold jewellery such as churi (bangle), bajuband (armlet), har (necklace), hansuli (ornament for the neck), sinthipati (ornament put on the head in the parting of hair), dul (earring), kanpasha (ear ornament), nolak (nose-ring), nath (big nose ring put on the nostril), nakchhabi (small star-shaped ornament put on the nostril), mal (anklet) etc. According to world gold council information, around the world 80% of the total gold design workers are Bengali
According to a report of AFP, there is around 400 gold shops and factories at the Tanti bazaar, a historic mohallha of old Dhaka , most of which have been run by Hindu goldsmiths since the market was founded in the 18 century. Goldsmiths at Shankhari Bazar and Tanti Bazar in Old Town are changing their profession day by day.
The two market places once were famous for fantastic gold jewellery where the goldsmiths had possessed their skills in jewellery-making mostly from their forefathers who were expert at traditional Indian and Pakistani gold ornament designs. But many goldsmiths are changing their profession as they are not interested now to continue the gold jewellery-making business because of soaring gold price which shrinks the gold market. Some jewellers at Tanti Bazar said individual goldsmiths who had own shops or small business had to close down their business as they were counting losses.
The goldsmiths have spoken out that condition of business is not acceptable and surpassing a transition period. At the Tanti bazaar today , the only business that are thriving are the pawnshops as people are effected by the impact of the global recession come to mortgage their assets for much needed cash.
On the wane
Cultural development and vision is important factor in style, cultural polarization of business and taste of consumer. According to Engr.A.M.M.S.H Khan Rizvi , because of traditional conceptions and nonappearance on standard visionary among our goldsmith community, we are losing past heritage of gold jewellery making .Goldsmith of Bangladesh are still primitive standard jewellery making process.
Price hiking is another major reason for unsatisfactory condition of goldsmith. Gold jewellery sales dropped by more than 50 percent in the past three years. The local consumption has declined to 10-12 tonnes a year then five years back and so the annual turnover of the jewellers has also marked a fall. Presently, the annual market size of gold jewellery is around Tk 3,000 crore. Small gold jewellery makers, designers and traders now increasingly opt for producing silver jewellery, as demand for alternatives, including silver and gold-plated jewellery is growing fast, said Anwar Hossain, president of Bangladesh Jewellery Manufacturers and Exporters Association.
Worst economic recession all over the world in 2008 has also affected in gold market, it make volatile and unprecedented Price hiking in international market for the last five years has shaken this business seriously. On the other hand, some fast developing countries like India and china have reserved huge amount of gold in stead of dollar. For this reason it also affects gold market of Bangladesh. Gold jewellery sales dropped by more than 50 percent in the past three years.
New trend new strategy
Now a days, Indians are opting for extremely lit showrooms with marble floors, glass display cases and professional salespeople -- preferably at a company whose brand name implies social status and wealth. Famous companies in Western jewellery such as DeBeers, Tiffany and Cartier have also moved into India since 1997 when overseas banks and bullion suppliers were allowed to import gold. According to the International Monetary Fund, about 15,000 tonnes of gold are privately held in India. Demand remains strong despite new records being set for the price of the metal on an almost daily basis. “There is a tectonic shift in the business now. If you want your gold jewellery business to survive -- brand it and advertise," said Sandeep Kulhali, vice president of Tanisq, one of India's oldest branded retail jewellery chains, owned by the Tata conglomerate.
Anwar Hossain is thinking similarly. “While India is thinking on brand wagon, we are still in primitive technology and traditional conception. Branding is macrocosmic trend for any industry in 21st century”. Despite having it’s price hiking , India is ruling on corporate thinking and branding .Even traditional jeweler makers like Notandas & Sons in the western city of Mumbai and P.C. Jewellers in New Delhi have signed up Bollywood heroines as brand ambassadors and also lend their products to contestants in beauty pageants. Amit Bumb, director of Avenue Montaigne, India's largest branded jewellery retail outlet, suggests the shift toward brands reflect social changes, but also new ways of viewing gold.
About India’s market expanding in Bangladesh Engr.A.M.M.S.H Khan Rizvi thinks it would be positive impact on our gold business industry. “As a citizen of globalize village, we can not keep away competitive environment and capitalistic movement. If they come in jewellery business and industry, our total attitude would be changed for our existence. Professionalism and corporate ideology would be magnificently changed the gold business of Bangladesh. Gold merchandizing, gold executive, trade union of goldsmith and other professional procedures should be applied in this arena”.